Weather - Desiree Gardens

October Gardens – Not much rain this year, but cooler weather is coming!

Desiree Gardens October 6, 2024 October 6, 2024Calendar, Drought, Irrigation, October 0

After this long hot and dry summer, it’s so nice to see gardens starting to perk back up and show off a little. It’s not even close to time to put your garden to bed for the winter. Just like our North Texas spring gardens are ended by the heat and lack of rain, fall gardens are only ended by the first hard freeze that usually comes in late December or occasionally January. That means your fall garden is just as important, and can be just as vibrant as your spring garden.

Anyone who has a teenager even tangentially involved in high-school football knows that mums are a classic choice for fall color. What many people don’t realize is that this perennial can provide exceptional fall color to your garden. They come in various colors and sizes and can be used in beds, borders, or containers. Mums are one of the last flowers to go dormant in the cold of winter, and when they do they might look dead, but wait! You can trim back the dead and the next year your mums will return. Coral bells are another perennial that is available in nurseries right now. Many of these Heuchera varieties offer colorful foliage year-round, but their leaves can become especially vibrant in the cooler fall temperatures. Finally, some salvias, like Mexican bush sage (Salvia leucantha), bloom profusely in the fall with spikes of purple or white flowers.

While some people dislike spending the time and effort to put in annual color year after year, it is a surefire method to bring immediate life to your fall garden. What’s more, many of these flowers such as pansies and annual violas will continue to bloom throughout the winter. These small, cold-tolerant annuals provide a burst of color with their bright blooms. Finally, ornamental varieties of cabbage and kale have colorful and textured leaves that intensify in color as the temperatures drop. They make unique additions to fall flower beds.

Late season blooms are not the only way to bring interest to your fall garden. Japanese maples turn glorious colors as their autumn leaves drop. If you’re considering adding a tree to your garden, now is the time to start planning as the dormant winter season is the ideal time to plant or transplant trees and other woody plants. But there are other options for late-season color: Russian sage’s silver-gray foliage and blue-purple flower spikes provide late-season interest and are drought-tolerant once established. Stonecrop sedums like ‘Autumn Joy’ offer succulent leaves and late-season blooms that change color from pink to russet as the season progresses. Hardy Cyclamen is a perennial plant that has uniquely shaped, colorful flowers that bloom in the fall and early winter, often alongside their marbled foliage.

When planting these cool-weather-loving ornamental plants, ensure they have well-drained soil, and regular watering to establish strong root systems and vibrant growth. If you have an irrigation system in place, you should be able to modify the water duration and amount for each season. Modern ET (Evapo-Transpiration) “smart” systems such as Rachio, Hunter, and Irrigreen, just to name a few, can tap into various weather monitoring services on the internet and automatically adjust the amount of water your plants need. Systems like Irrigreen can also adjust to very precise levels and add the exact amount of water precisely where and when it is needed. This can amount to tens or even hundreds of thousands of gallons of water savings.
As always, you should consider incorporating mulch to help maintain soil moisture and protect against temperature fluctuations. With these choices, your North Texas garden can continue to thrive and provide visual interest well into the fall season.

No matter what time of year, there is always something to do in a North Texas garden. Don’t forget to refresh mulch on a regular basis, and add some compost or fertilizer from time to time. Fall doesn’t mean that your garden is done. Gardens in our area remain very active even up through December, and then we can start moving onto our winter color and activities. That means it’s a great time to start the planning process for any hardscapes or other projects you want to put in while many plants are dormant.

To learn more about the Irrigreen systems we can install for you, visit Irrigreen.com, or give us a call at 877-558-1496.

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Happy gardening and, as always, take time to play in the dirt!

September: The rains are back!

Desiree Gardens September 4, 2024 September 4, 2024Calendar, Irrigation, September, Weather 0

Finally, there is a hint of cooler weather, and the fall rains have returned to North Texas!. This means your garden is ready to explode back to life, and we can’t wait to see all that beautiful fall color!

This summer’s heat and lack of rain have seriously tested most irrigation systems. Some of you may have gardens and lawns that look like they have been blasted by the summer heat. If there are areas of your sprinkler system that are broken, or where perhaps it simply didn’t get enough water in the right places, it should be patently obvious now. Take the time to address any problems with your irrigation now so that your plants will have a fighting chance to recover in time for winter. Here are Desiree Gardens, we’ve partnered with Irrigreen, the cutting edge of sprinkler technology. We can make sure your lawn is getting exactly the amount of water you need and save you money on your water bill at the same time! It’s an irrigation system that will literally pay for itself in water savings, and it’s compatible with your existing drip or spray systems for your flower beds.

Towards the end of the month, start planning and purchasing fall bulbs like tulips, daffodils, and hyacinths for planting later in the fall. Add compost or organic matter to your garden beds to enrich the soil and improve its structure. This can be done before planting your fall garden. Don’t forget to deadhead summer blooms that are coming to an end so that plants kept for their flowers do not pour extra energy into creating seeds. Many varieties will continue to produce bloom after beautiful bloom in this manner, including your fall-flowering plants just about to come into season. If vegetables and other crops are your thing, it’s not too late to start your cool-season crops. Decorative crops such as kale, cabbage, mustard greens, and Swiss chard can also find spots among your fall-flowering plants.

Refresh the soil in your containers with new potting soil. Any potted plants that do not need new soil should at a minimum be treated with an appropriate fertilizer, such as a water-soluble (liquid) fertilizer bedding formula (10-10-10) for flowering plants and a blend with a bit more potassium (the middle number) like a 10-15-10 blend. Consider replanting them with cool-season flowers or ornamental cabbage and kale for fall color. Any pure tropical plants should start to get a little extra attention: these varieties, such as bougainvillea, cannot tolerate nighttime temperatures below around 45°F. If we get a welcome cold snap, these tropicals will need to be moved inside.

While we don’t focus on lawns here at Desiree Gardens, we certainly can help you grow lush, thick grass in your yard. For our area of North Texas, all-nitrogen (21-0-0) in slow-release form should be applied in early to mid-September. To control cool-season weeds, you can apply a pre-emergent this month and a second round of pre-emergent 90 days later. You’ll want to repeat this process for spring weeds. For other weeds, a broadleaf weed killer is your choice. Any local nursery can help you find one; just make sure to follow the directions. We recommend any brands that have at least 1% of 2,4-D in the formulation. What we never recommend is a combination weed-and-feed. Just be careful with the application and use broadleaf weed killers on a day with no wind so that it won’t drift from your lawn to your garden beds where it can damage them.

To learn more about the Irrigreen systems we can install for you, visit Irrigreen.com, or give us a call at 877-558-1496.

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Happy gardening and, as always, take time to play in the dirt!

August: Time to start planning your fall garden!

Desiree Gardens August 8, 2024 August 8, 2024August, Calendar, Extreme Heat, Irrigation, Trees 0

The heat is still here, and the rains haven’t been consistent for quite some time. But the good news is that fall rains and cooler weather are right around the corner. Now is the time to get your garden ready for its fall glory.

If you’ve been waiting to trim and prune your oak trees, the end of August is the perfect time when it is safe to do so. Unlike most other trees and woody shrubs, oaks in North Texas should be pruned in the heat of summer. This is due to the prevalence of the oak wilt fungus, which is transmitted to open cuts by the nitidulid beetle, also known as the sap beetle. These beetles are attracted to the sap that is released from wounds on oak trees, but the fungus that these beetles transmit is much less active here in North Texas during the hot summer days of July and August. After pruning your oaks, all wounds and cuts should immediately be painted with a dedicated tree wound paint or, absent that, a latex based paint.

Your summer annuals and hot weather perennials are likely done or nearing the end of their bloom cycle. For your flowering annuals, you can let them go to seed in hopes that they reseed themselves for you next year. Zinnias, amaranth, and marigolds are very reliable in this fashion. With other flowering annuals, you should dead-head species such as coleus, begonias, and impatiens as the petals fall off. This spurs them into creating more flowers instead of devoting their energy to creating seeds. The same can be done for your flowering perennials like roses. Additionally, roses should be pruned to stimulate new growth. Climbing roses are famous for their blooms throughout the season, and don’t usually need much attention other than a good bloom fertilizer.

The most exciting part is that your fall garden is ready to be put into the soil now. Many of the cool weather perennials are now becoming available for purchase and you can place those fall asters or Mexican bush sage now. Other perennial shrubs and ground covers should be planted now, just remember to water all of these fall plants deeply until the cooler weather and autumn rains arrives. If you have a shade garden, you can start planting coral bells, autumn ferns, and hardy begonia.

If vegetables are your thing, those seeds are ready to be planted. Squash, beans, and cucumbers should be planted now. In a few weeks we can add broccoli and cauliflower, along with kales and cabbages. Start your vegetables from seed indoors or in a greenhouse, or pick them up as small plugs from a nursery. If you want to start your vegetables outside from seed, be sure they get some protection from the hot afternoon sun.

Whatever your needs are, Desiree Gardens is always here to help. Whether you need plant installation, irrigation installation, repair, or maintenance, trimming, pruning, or maybe just a weekly or monthly maintenance plan we have what you need. Learn more at DesireeGardens.com

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As always, don’t be afraid to play in the dirt!

July Gardens: Lantanas, Crape Myrtles, and LOTS of water!

Desiree Gardens July 11, 2024 July 11, 2024Calendar, Drought, Insects and Pest Control, Irrigation, July 0

It’s hot. The rains have pretty much stopped for the summer. Hurrican Beryl brought some rain to the eastern portions of North Texas, but most of the DFW metroplex and points west missed out on that drenching. What’s left to do in the garden? Well there’s plenty to do, including planting some of our favorite heat-loving perennials and annual color. It’s time to pay close attention to your irrigation system if you have one and, if you don’t, make sure that you are hand watering at least every other day.

This is a wonderful time to select and plant your crape myrtles. They should be in bloom at your local nursery so it’s easy to pick out your favorite colors. The same applies to lantanas and other small blooming perennial shrubs. When planting these new additions it is absolutely crucial that they are deeply watered in, and that they continue to be deeply watered on a regular basis until they begin to become established. The worst thing you can do, and we see this a lot, is to spend a ton of money on pricey specimens like crape myrtles only to plop them into a hole in the ground and expect them to survive with little water and no support! Adding annual color such as purple fountain grass, purslane, and moss rose are a great way to get that additional “pop” of color to your garden beds.

July is the time for a second application of a pre-emergent to prevent weed growth. Along those same lines it is time to add another round of fertilizer. With more frequent watering, nutrients crucial to a healthy lawn can be diluted and washed away. For our most common clay soils we recommend an all nitrogen slow release granular fertilizer. Do NOT use a “weed and feed” as they can damage trees and shrubs. If new sod is what you need, this is prime time for installing bermuda, zoysia, st. augustine, and buffalo grass. When having new sod installed make absolutely sure to water it deeply twice a day for the next 2-3 weeks so that the roots can become established. Desiree Gardens can help program a proper watering schedule for your sprinkler system after we install your new lawn.

Speaking of sprinkler and irrigation systems, it seems every year around this time we begin to have severe watering restrictions that can be devastating to both lawns and gardens. For this reason we highly recommend drip irrigation which can be retrofit and installed in almost any garden or raised bed, or installed prior to the installation of new lawns. Drip systems are usually exempt from watering restrictions because they apply water directly to the soil and are much less susceptible to waste from evaporation or runoff. Drip systems are by far the most efficient way to water your garden, and can actually lower your water bill every month. When combined with a modern ET (evapotranspiration) controller such as a Rachio, Hunter Hydrawise, or even Irrigreen, we have seen customers reporting savings on their water bill of 50% to 70% compared to older controllers equipped with just a rain sensor and standard spray heads.

July and August are the times that it is safe to trim your oak trees. Unlike most other trees and woody shrubs, oaks in North Texas should be pruned in the heat of summer. This is due to the prevalence of the oak wilt fungus, which is transmitted to open cuts by the nitidulid beetle, also known as the sap beetle. These beetles are attracted to the sap that is released from wounds on oak trees, but the fungus that these beetles transmit is much less active here in North Texas during the hot summer days of July and August. After pruning your oaks, all wounds and cuts should immediately be painted with a dedicated tree wound paint or, absent that, a latex based paint.

Another tree pest to keep an eye out for is the emerald ash borer. This invasive pest is quite deadly to ash trees and there is no known treatment or cure once a tree is infested. Recently they have been discovered in Collin, Franklin, Red River, Grayson, Hill, Hood, McLennan, and Palo Pinto counties. This deadly pest has the potential to wipe out ash trees completely in North America. Transportation of any ash wood, whether firewood or trimmings is restricted from these counties, in addition to Dallas, Tarrant, Denton, and Parker counties which are already under quarantine.

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As always, don’t forget to play in the dirt!

February is here, and it’s time to get ready for spring!

Desiree Gardens February 3, 2024 February 4, 2024Annuals, Calendar, February, Freezes, Natural Gardens, Perennials, Plants, Weather 0

February begins to herald the change to spring here in North Texas, and while we often get some of our hardest freezes in February it’s also the time when your garden will begin to wake up. Most plants use a combination of available sunlight, as the days grow longer, as well as soil temperature to decide when to come out of dormancy. Now is also the time to begin planning your spring garden. But what needs to be done now?

This is the perfect time to prune woody trees and shrubs, except for oaks, while they are still dormant. Any remaining ornamental grasses and perennials should also get a trim to be ready for spring, although there are some exceptions: plants like wisteria set their buds in the fall and should not be trimmed until later in the spring after flowering. If there are any deadfall, loose brush, or annuals that have run their course, it is time to do a deep cleaning in your garden and pull all that out. It’s not too late to plant new trees and shrubs, but it’s wise to prune by as much as 50% (depending on species) them when they are planted. Nandinas, for example, whether new or existing should be severely pruned back with the tallest canes taken back all the way to ground level. This will encourage more bushy growth and prevent them from becoming too leggy.

If you are starting anything from seed they should be planted indoors for now so that they are ready for planting when the soil temperature warms up a bit. Certain perennials should also be planted, or at least get them ready to be planted, such as mallows, gloriosas, fall asters and salvias. Cool season annuals can also be swapped out for iceland poppies, larkspur, and sweet alyssum.

You can begin to fertilize your trees and shrubs right now, but hold off a little bit on any cold-sensitive plants. They should wait until late March or just before Easter before being fertilized. By the same token your lawns should be scalped, fertilized (depending on the species, it’s still to early to fertilize your warm weather lawns such as St. Augustine) and possibly amend with peat moss towards the end of this month. If possible, make sure to bag the clippings and use it in your compost or as mulch. Remove any winter seeds and start looking to use a pre-emergent weed killer later this month or in early March depending on the weather. If you need to aerate your lawn to help reduce soil compaction this is a good time for that as well.

Remember that we can get hard freezes even through late March and early April, so try not to get overeager and be prepared to use frost cloth to protect your sensitive plants from early spring cold snaps. This is an exciting time of year for gardeners as the warmth of spring is just barely in sight. Consult your local nursery to see what plants are in stock and appropriate to be planted right now, and don’t hesitate to pick up the phone and give us a call for a consultation specific to your garden goals.

Need help with your irrigation or sprinkler system? Does your garden need an overhaul or just a general checkup? Maybe you just need a helping hand to protect sensitive plants from freeze and frost. Give us a call at 817-202-4808, or drop us a line and contact us here, to find out how Desiree can help you create a wonderful garden with a budget you can afford.

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After a hard freeze, don’t panic! How to evaluate damage.

Desiree Gardens January 22, 2024 January 23, 2024Calendar, Extreme Heat, February, Freezes, January, Weather 0

Well, we’ve finally emerged from the frigid ice-box that was North Texas these past few days. Hopefully you’ve been able to shelter your most sensitive plants through cleverly designed micro-climates, deep watering, and judicious use of frost cloth. Frost cloth is remarkably effective in the day time when properly applied: it provides a 5°F to as much as 10° rise in temperatures during the day time. That’s more than adequate for most plants as it brings our lows in the teens up to 25° plus. The danger comes at night when their effectiveness dwindles, leaving plants to rely on adequate water and ground temperature to help them weather the storm.

The most important thing when evaluating frost or freeze damage is not to panic. Some damage is easy to find: black or mushy leaves and stems are easy to find on non-woody plants and can be removed straight away, but don’t just start pulling out plants. While some damage is normal, many many plants will be able to recover with the first warmup of spring. Some plants will die completely back to the ground only to recover from their ground insulated roots. Other plants will look damaged with curled leaves, some discoloration, and branches that appear dry and dead. For woody plants, shrubs and trees, patience is key. Certain palms, waxleaf ligustrums, oleanders, and gardenias are some example of woody plants that cannot tolerate the cold. Still, give these guys time and wait until spring to give them a fair chance for a proper evaluation.

January is often one of our driest months, but we’ve been blessed with an abundance of precipitation both during and after our most recent hard freeze. As mentioned in a previous article, water is one of the best defenses against freeze damage. Moist soil and mulch hold an immense amount of water, and that water resists changing into ice until it has lost a significant amount of energy. Liquid water will remain at 32°F for quite some time before freezing. This is also why well watered and hydrated plants suffer less damage than dry plants. Additionally, water features and swimming pools will contribute heat and atmospheric moisture (humidity) to the surrounding plants.

Your frost cloth provides wind protection as well and prevents wind burn on sensitive leaves. Plant location also plays a huge factor here. We mentioned creating a micro-climate for your garden earlier. This means that your most sensitive plants should be on the south side of a structure like a fence or house where they not only get wind protection but also benefit from the direct sun in the daylight. Hardier plants can be placed on the north side of houses, fences, or other structures. The hardiest evergreens can be placed so that they provide shelter from biting north winds for more sensitive plants that are south of this wind block. Finally, brick, stone, and rock, including large boulders, absorb a significant amount of solar radiation during the day that is then released back as heat during the night.

To recap, if you are using some or all of these tactics your plants will stand a much better chance of surviving cold snaps. But after things warm up don’t panic! Some damage is to be expected but many plants are much hardier than people give them credit for. They may look a little sad for a while, but give them a chance until spring to see how well they actually fared before you start cutting limbs and branches or digging them out.

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Freeze Warning! How to protect your plants.

Desiree Gardens January 13, 2024 January 13, 2024Freezes, January, Weather 0

We are on the cusp of a frigid couple of days this week, and with temperatures dropping into the single digits even some of your hardiest plants may need a little bit of help.

Let’s start by going over plants that will do fine in this cold: Any trees or shrubs that have lost their leaves for the winter will be fine. They are dormant and, absent the roots actually freezing, should be fine. One exception is container plants. Any trees or shrubs – any plant really – that is in a container should get special attention as this cold snap can freeze the roots of container plants far easier than plants in the ground. All of your winter annuals should be fine, and some perennials that have managed to stick around this long, even if they won’t tolerate the cold without dying back to the ground, will be okay. Don’t panic if you see some of these plants die back to the ground. Come spring they will explode with life again.

If you do have container plants that you cannot bring inside, make sure to give them a good deep watering and then wrap the container in blankets or frost cloth. This method works well for your other plants in the ground that need protection: frost cloth or blankets should cover the plant entirely and be staked to the ground. If you’re using moving blankets or something that is more difficult to stake you can anchor them with bricks or rock. Again, deep watering is one of the best ways to prevent freeze damage. Water has to lose quite a bit of energy in order to make the change over to ice. This means that, until it freezes, it will stay right at 32°F until it finally gets cold enough to change to ice. For plants in the ground it will likely never freeze in our area due to the natural warmth of the ground.

Deep watering before a freeze also ensures that your plants are properly hydrated. The same principle we discussed above also applies here. Dried out plants can freeze much easier than plants that are well watered. Frost cloth or blankets help here as well by keeping the harsh winds off of the plant. During cold spells like this that frigid air can cause wind burn and damage leaves on your evergreen plants.

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