August: Time to start planning your fall garden!

Late summer blooms.The heat is still here, and the rains haven’t been consistent for quite some time. But the good news is that fall rains and cooler weather are right around the corner. Now is the time to get your garden ready for its fall glory.

If you’ve been waiting to trim and prune your oak trees, the end of August is the perfect time when it is safe to do so. Unlike most other trees and woody shrubs, oaks in North Texas should be pruned in the heat of summer. This is due to the prevalence of the oak wilt fungus, which is transmitted to open cuts by the nitidulid beetle, also known as the sap beetle. These beetles are attracted to the sap that is released from wounds on oak trees, but the fungus that these beetles transmit is much less active here in North Texas during the hot summer days of July and August. After pruning your oaks, all wounds and cuts should immediately be painted with a dedicated tree wound paint or, absent that, a latex based paint.

Your summer annuals and hot weather perennials are likely done or nearing the end of their bloom cycle. For your flowering annuals, you can let them go to seed in hopes that they reseed themselves for you next year. Zinnias, amaranth, and marigolds are very reliable in this fashion. With other flowering annuals, you should dead-head species such as coleus, begonias, and impatiens as the petals fall off. This spurs them into creating more flowers instead of devoting their energy to creating seeds. The same can be done for your flowering perennials like roses. Additionally, roses should be pruned to stimulate new growth. Climbing roses are famous for their blooms throughout the season, and don’t usually need much attention other than a good bloom fertilizer.

The most exciting part is that your fall garden is ready to be put into the soil now. Many of the cool weather perennials are now becoming available for purchase and you can place those fall asters or Mexican bush sage now. Other perennial shrubs and ground covers should be planted now, just remember to water all of these fall plants deeply until the cooler weather and autumn rains arrives. If you have a shade garden, you can start planting coral bells, autumn ferns, and hardy begonia.

Late summer blooms.If vegetables are your thing, those seeds are ready to be planted. Squash, beans, and cucumbers should be planted now. In a few weeks we can add broccoli and cauliflower, along with kales and cabbages. Start your vegetables from seed indoors or in a greenhouse, or pick them up as small plugs from a nursery. If you want to start your vegetables outside from seed, be sure they get some protection from the hot afternoon sun.

No matter what time of year, there is always something to do in a North Texas garden. Don’t forget to refresh mulch on a regular basis, and add some compost or fertilizer from time to time. Fall doesn’t mean that your garden is done. Gardens in our area remain very active even up through December, and then we can start moving onto our winter color and activities. That means it’s a great time to start the planning process for any hardscapes or other projects you want to put in while many plants are dormant. You might also notice spots in your lawn or garden that are not getting sufficient irrigation. Now is the time to remedy that.

Whatever your needs are, Desiree Gardens is always here to help. Whether you need plant installation, irrigation installation, repair, or maintenance, trimming, pruning, or maybe just a weekly or monthly maintenance plan we have what you need. Learn more at DesireeGardens.com

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As always, don’t be afraid to play in the dirt!

After a hard freeze, don’t panic! How to evaluate damage.

Winter garden statuaryWell, we’ve finally emerged from the frigid ice-box that was North Texas these past few days. Hopefully you’ve been able to shelter your most sensitive plants through cleverly designed micro-climates, deep watering, and judicious use of frost cloth. Frost cloth is remarkably effective in the day time when properly applied: it provides a 5°F to as much as 10° rise in temperatures during the day time. That’s more than adequate for most plants as it brings our lows in the teens up to 25° plus. The danger comes at night when their effectiveness dwindles, leaving plants to rely on adequate water and ground temperature to help them weather the storm.

The most important thing when evaluating frost or freeze damage is not to panic. Some damage is easy to find: black or mushy leaves and stems are easy to find on non-woody plants and can be removed straight away, but don’t just start pulling out plants. While some damage is normal, many many plants will be able to recover with the first warmup of spring. Some plants will die completely back to the ground only to recover from their ground insulated roots. Other plants will look damaged with curled leaves, some discoloration, and branches that appear dry and dead. For woody plants, shrubs and trees, patience is key. Certain palms, waxleaf ligustrums, oleanders, and gardenias are some example of woody plants that cannot tolerate the cold. Still, give these guys time and wait until spring to give them a fair chance for a proper evaluation.

January is often one of our driest months, but we’ve been blessed with an abundance of precipitation both during and after our most recent hard freeze. As mentioned in a previous article, water is one of the best defenses against freeze damage. Moist soil and mulch hold an immense amount of water, and that water resists changing into ice until it has lost a significant amount of energy. Liquid water will remain at 32°F for quite some time before freezing. This is also why well watered and hydrated plants suffer less damage than dry plants. Additionally, water features and swimming pools will contribute heat and atmospheric moisture (humidity) to the surrounding plants.

Winter garden statuaryYour frost cloth provides wind protection as well and prevents wind burn on sensitive leaves. Plant location also plays a huge factor here. We mentioned creating a micro-climate for your garden earlier. This means that your most sensitive plants should be on the south side of a structure like a fence or house where they not only get wind protection but also benefit from the direct sun in the daylight. Hardier plants can be placed on the north side of houses, fences, or other structures. The hardiest evergreens can be placed so that they provide shelter from biting north winds for more sensitive plants that are south of this wind block. Finally, brick, stone, and rock, including large boulders, absorb a significant amount of solar radiation during the day that is then released back as heat during the night.

To recap, if you are using some or all of these tactics your plants will stand a much better chance of surviving cold snaps. But after things warm up don’t panic! Some damage is to be expected but many plants are much hardier than people give them credit for. They may look a little sad for a while, but give them a chance until spring to see how well they actually fared before you start cutting limbs and branches or digging them out.

Need help with your irrigation or sprinkler system? Does your garden need an overhaul or just a general checkup? Maybe you just need a helping hand to protect sensitive plants from freeze and frost. Give us a call at 817-202-4808, or drop us a line and contact us here, to find out how Desiree can help you create a wonderful garden with a budget you can afford.

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