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Prepping for Your Fall Garden

Desiree Gardens September 3, 2023 September 3, 2023Calendar, Irrigation, Plants, September 0

Finally, there is a hint of cooler weather, and the return of the fall rains is nearly upon us. This means your garden is ready to explode back to life, and we can’t wait to see all that beautiful fall garden color!

Irrigation
This summer’s heat and lack of rain have seriously tested most irrigation systems. Some of you may have gardens and lawns that look like they have been blasted by the summer heat. If there are areas of your sprinkler system that are broken, or where perhaps it simply didn’t get enough water in the right places, it should be patently obvious now. Take the time to address any problems with your irrigation now so that your plants will have a fighting chance to recover in time for winter.

Fall Plantings
Towards the end of the month, start planning and purchasing fall bulbs like tulips, daffodils, and hyacinths for planting later in the fall. Add compost or organic matter to your garden beds to enrich the soil and improve its structure. This can be done before planting your fall garden. Don’t forget to deadhead summer blooms that are coming to an end so that plants kept for their flowers do not pour extra energy into creating seeds. Many varieties will continue to produce bloom after beautiful bloom in this manner, including your fall-flowering plants just about to come into season. If vegetables and other crops are your thing, it’s not too late to start your cool-season crops. Decorative crops such as kale, cabbage, mustard greens, and Swiss chard can also find spots among your fall-flowering plants.

Container Plants
Refresh the soil in your containers with new potting soil. Any potted plants that do not need new soil should at a minimum be treated with an appropriate fertilizer, such as a water-soluble (liquid) fertilizer bedding formula (10-10-10) for flowering plants and a blend with a bit more potassium (the middle number) like a 10-15-10 blend. Consider replanting them with cool-season flowers or ornamental cabbage and kale for fall color. Any pure tropical plants should start to get a little extra attention: these varieties, such as bougainvillea, cannot tolerate nighttime temperatures below around 45°F. If we get a welcome cold snap, these tropicals will need to be moved inside.

Lawn Care and Feeding
While we don’t focus on lawns here at Desiree Gardens, we certainly can help you grow lush, thick grass in your yard. For our area of North Texas, all-nitrogen (21-0-0) in slow-release form should be applied in early to mid-September. To control cool-season weeds, you can apply a pre-emergent this month and a second round of pre-emergent 90 days later. You’ll want to repeat this process for spring weeds. For other weeds, a broadleaf weed killer is your choice. Any local nursery can help you find one; just make sure to follow the directions. We recommend any brands that have at least 1% of 2,4-D in the formulation. What we never recommend is a combination weed-and-feed. Just be careful with the application and use broadleaf weed killers on a day with no wind so that it won’t drift from your lawn to your garden beds where it can damage them.

No matter what time of year, there is always something to do in a North Texas garden. Don’t forget to refresh mulch on a regular basis, and add some compost or fertilizer from time to time. Fall doesn’t mean that your garden is done. Gardens in our area remain very active even up through December, and then we can start moving onto our winter color and activities. That means it’s a great time to start the planning process for any hardscapes or other projects you want to put in while many plants are dormant.

Need help with your irrigation or sprinkler system? Does your garden need an overhaul or just a general checkup? Give us a call at 877-558-1496, or drop us a line and contact us here, to find out how Desiree can help you create a wonderful garden with a budget you can afford.

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What’s Going On In My Garden? – August Update

Desiree Gardens August 8, 2023 September 3, 2023August, Cabbage, Calendar, Fruits and Vegetables, Kale 0

The heat is still here, and the rains haven’t been consistent for quite some time. But the good news is that fall rains and cooler weather are right around the corner. Now is the time to get your garden ready for its fall glory.

Flowering Plants
Your summer annuals and hot weather perennials are likely done or nearing the end of their bloom cycle. For your flowering annuals, you can let them go to seed in hopes that they reseed themselves for you next year. Zinnias and marigolds are very reliable in this fashion. Other flowering annuals, you can dead-head some species such as coleus, begonias, and impatiens as the petals fall off. This spurs them into creating more flowers instead of devoting their energy to creating seeds. The same can be done for your flowering perennials like roses. Roses should also be pruned to stimulate new growth. Climbing roses are famous for their blooms throughout the season, and don’t usually need much attention other than a good bloom fertilizer.

Fall Plantings
The most exciting part is that your fall garden is ready to be put into the soil now. Many of the cool weather perennials are now becoming available for purchase and you can place those fall asters or Mexican bush sage now. Other perennial shrubs and ground covers should be planted now, just remember to water all of these fall plants deeply until the cooler weather arrives. If you have a shade garden, you can start planting coral bells, autumn ferns, and hardy begonia.

Cool Weather Vegetables
If vegetables are your thing, those seeds are ready to be planted. Squash, beans, and cucumbers should be in the ground this week. In a few weeks we can add broccoli and cauliflower, along with kales and cabbages. Start your vegetables from seed indoors or in a greenhouse, or pick them up as small plugs from a nursery. If you want to start your vegetables outside from seed, be sure they get some protection from the hot afternoon sun.

Happy gardening, and don’t be afraid to play in the dirt! Give us a call at 877-558-1496, or drop us a line and contact us here, to find out how Desiree can help you create a wonderful garden with a budget you can afford.

Surviving North Texas Summers: Tips for a Thriving Garden

Desiree Gardens July 25, 2023 July 24, 2023Calendar, Irrigation, Late June and July, Natural Gardens, Plants 0

This is the time of year when people find out if they chose the right plant in the right place with the right amount of water. The opposite of the deep-freeze of winter, this scorching summer heat and lack of rain is pushing plants to their limit. We are inundated with customers complaining about dead gardens and lawns. With water restrictions in place, it is really difficult to get your plants and grass enough water to withstand the onslaught of summer.

It doesn’t have to be this way. Properly designed, with sufficient moisture from an irrigation system or obsessive hand watering, your garden can in fact survive the summers of North Texas. As part of this, it is critical to water your plants deeply and infrequently. Deep watering is critical to helping your plants establish deep roots. Plants that are frequently watered may have the roots find their way closer towards the surface where they can be damaged by hot dry soil. If you are in an area with water restrictions, and even if you are not, you can accomplish this by extending the run time of each zone on the days it is designated to run.

The heavy clay soils of North Texas can be difficult to water deeply, and you may see excess runoff from your garden and lawn soil onto the pavement. To prevent this, use a cycle and soak method. Modern irrigation systems have this “cycle and soak” programming built in for you to customize to your plants and soil. If you are noticing runoff from your clay soil, reduce the run time of the zone and add a soak time in your cycle and soak settings. This will allow the silt and clay to absorb the water that has been put down before the second irrigation cycle begins. All watering should be done in the morning or evening in order to minimize evapotranspiration and maximize soil absorption.

What is evapotranspiration? Evapotranspiration is the combination of water removed from soil and plants through the process of transpiration and evaporation. Both of these are accelerated by direct sunlight and high temperatures. This summer sun in North Texas is literally sucking all of the moisture from your plants, and if we have any wind it only gets worse! Even your most sun loving and heat tolerant plants can’t survive if more water is removed than can be supplied to them. So, if water restrictions are making it difficult to add enough water to your garden, it is time to look at stopping the amount of moisture you are losing.

Install shade cloth over delicate or heat-sensitive plants to provide some respite from direct sunlight. This is especially true for any plants that are exposed to the scorching afternoon sun. Shade cloth can reduce the intensity of sunlight, lower air and soil temperatures, and protect plants from sunburn. Additionally you can use windbreaks, such as hedges or fences, to shield plants from strong winds. Wind can exacerbate heat stress by increasing evaporation and drying out plants faster.

If you haven’t already, put down a layer of mulch. Mulch helps the soil to retain moisture, lowers the temperature of the soil, and provides excellent weed control. In addition, as it breaks down, mulch releases much needed nutrients into the soil. Old mulch should also be raked out and replaced occasionally if has dried out too much. Check your old mulch by dribbling a few drops of water on top: if it is immediately absorbed you should be fine. On the other hand if the small droplets of water bead on top of the mulch without being absorbed you should replace the dried out mulch with new mulch. We encourage the use of un-dyed shredded hardwood mulch that has been mixed with a little compost. Other choices of mulch include straw, leaves, or grass clippings.

Remember, it’s essential to understand the specific needs of your plants and adapt the protective measures accordingly. Factors such as plant species, maturity, and local weather patterns can influence the level of care required. Choose heat-tolerant plants that are well-suited for Zone 8. Better yet, always plant native plants wherever possible. These plants are better equipped to withstand the hot temperatures and frequent droughts that define the summer time in North Texas. Regularly monitor your plants for signs of heat stress, such as wilting, yellowing, or browning leaves. Adjust your watering and shading practices accordingly to provide the necessary relief.

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Plant Focus: Turk’s Cap Malvaviscus arboreus

Desiree Gardens July 11, 2023 July 9, 2023Perennials, Plants, Shrubs 0

This North Texas native excels in our climate and should have a place in nearly every garden. This perennial can get over four feet tall and nearly three feet wide in the far north of it’s habitat. In warmer climates where it grows year-round it can tower over seven feet tall.

The Turk’s Cap can tolerate a wide variety of soil and water conditions and it has adapted to a wide range of climates with a range that extends from USDA zone 7 all the way south to Florida, Cuba, Mexico, and the entirety of the Gulf Coast. In southern climates that rarely get freezing weather the Turk’s Cap is an evergreen plant and will flower year-round. Further north it will die back to the ground in colder weather and reemerge every spring as a woody perennial. Malvaviscus arboreus is often found as an understory plant where it thrives in the shade of larger trees, but it’s adaptability allows it to flourish in everything from full sun to nearly full shade.

When cultivating Turk’s Cap, it is generally recommended to prune it back in late winter or early spring to promote vigorous growth and maintain a compact shape. The plant can be propagated through stem cuttings or by dividing mature clumps. While propagation is easy in theory, the heavy black clays of North Texas make it exceedingly difficult to a very dense and extraordinary root system that can send taps very deep. Nevertheless, Turk’s Cap is very hardy and dividing root balls can be a very successful method of propagation. An alternative mentioned above is to use stem cuttings and a little bit of root powder, but the most successful methods are either layering (simply lightly bury a node on a branch) or letting it reseed from the abundant flowers and fruits they produce.

One of the most distinctive features of the Turk’s Cap is its unique flowers. Malvaviscus arboreus produces flowers from late spring to fall, attracting hummingbirds, butterflies, and bees with its nectar-rich blooms. The flowers have a long blooming season, providing a continuous source of nectar for pollinators. The flowers are borne in clusters and have a shape resembling a turban or a Turkish fez, which gives the plant its common name. The flowers are typically red, but there are also varieties with pink or white blooms. The true flowers are the small, inconspicuous structures within the colorful bracts. Malvaviscus arboreus is highly valued by wildlife due to its nectar-rich flowers. It attracts pollinators such as hummingbirds and butterflies, particularly ruby throated hummingbirds, making it a great addition to wildlife gardens. Birds are also known to feed on the red berries produced by the plant.

Besides its ornamental value, Turk’s Cap has some practical uses. The flowers can be used to make jams, jellies, and beverages with a tart flavor. The small red berries are also edible and have a mild flavor and mealy texture that makes them attractive to humans, birds, and animals alike. The leaves of the plant have also been used in traditional medicine in Mexico and elsewhere for various purposes, including the treatment of digestive, reproductive, and respiratory issues.

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PLANT FACTS

Plant Type: Woody Perennial Shrub
Color: Evergreen with red or white flowers
Light: Full shade to full sun
Blooms: Red or White, Spring to Fall
Height: 4 feet; up to 9 feet in frost free areas
Width: 3 to 4 feet
Heat Tolerance: Very High
Water Requirements: Very Low
USDA Hardiness Zone: 7-10
Soil Requirements: Any

All About Mulch

Desiree Gardens July 5, 2023 June 29, 2023Natural Gardens 0

Garden mulch is simple topic that is often misunderstood by so many people. Mulch is far more than just a decorative finish for a garden bed. Used properly, mulch is one of the key ingredients for maintaining a healthy landscape. Used improperly and mulch can actually kill plants and drive off precious moisture.

Let’s start by discussing dyed mulches. Mulch that has been dyed red or black is some of the most popular mulch out there, and one doesn’t have to look twice to realize why. It looks fantastic and can really make a boring garden bed pop. It used to be the case that dyed mulches used toxic and unnatural dyes. On occasion, especially with the cheapest mulch from the big box stores, this is still the case. By and large however, most dyed mulches use iron oxide for red and carbon for black and darker brown mulch. The toxicity of the coloring is no longer the issue: The quality and composition of the shredded wood is our main area of concern. With low quality dyed mulch manufacturers of the cheap stuff often use wood that has been stained, treated, or otherwise contaminated with chemicals we’d rather keep out of the garden. Whether it has been treated with creosote, arsenic, or old varnish and stains, any scrap wood is fair game for these unscrupulous manufacturers. Old pallets are another popular source, but the unknown origin of the wood still presents a problem for gardeners.

When it comes to selecting a mulch, look for a seal from the Mulch and Soil Council that certifies that your mulch meets their standards. Here at Desiree Gardens we prefer a shredded hardwood mulch made from all natural wood such as fallen trees. The majority of our in-house mulch comes from arborists who have cut down or pruned trees and need us to recycle it into garden beds. Dyes, if they are used, consist solely of iron oxide (which can be great for your beds needing more iron) or just carbon for the black mulches. Keep in mind that if you are using a black mulch that is dyed with carbon, you will need to rebalance the soil by adding some all-nitrogen fertilizer such as a 15-0-0.

Another solution we use for dark and black mulches is to partially compost the mulch or mix it with an existing compost. At the end of the day mulch is not just decorative, it is designed to break down and amend the soil as freshly composted nutrients wash into and break down into a rich loam. Cheaper bagged mulch is often dried out and actually will repel moisture instead trapping it and keeping it in the soil.

If weed control is one of your goals with mulch you might consider putting down a base layer of cardboard to act as a weed barrier. This all natural product (don’t use the glossy stuff) efficiently controls most weeds and is an excellent solution for helping the soil to retain moisture. Inks in all modern cardboard printing is vegetable based and will not harm your garden. Top your cardboard off with a nice hardwood mulch and the cardboard and mulch will slowly break down to provide nutrients for your soil as it does its job as decorative finish.

The biggest mistake we see with mulch is two-fold: Not raking out old mulch, and adding too much mulch. This phenomenon is most pronounced under trees that have been “mulched” by less scrupulous landscape companies. If you’ve seen mulch “volcanoes” underneath trees then you’ve seen what we’re talking about: 12″-24″ of mulch piled up against the a tree like a miniature mulch volcano with the tree trunk erupting from the middle. Do not do this! Not only is the mulch trapping moisture against the bark of the tree, which can lead to fungal infections, but this practice often results in roots rising up and eventually girdling the tree and killing it.

Properly applied, mulch should be 1″-2″ deep on the ground underneath the tree canopy and extending out to the drip edge. Depending on the size, age, and water requirements of the tree some gardeners make a small berm 4″-6″ tall around the outside of the canopy drip edge. This allows irrigation methods such as using a flood bubbler to deeply water the roots under the mulch circle.

If you’re refreshing mulch, rake out the old mulch first. Adding new mulch over old mulch that hasn’t properly broken down just compounds the problem. If you have old mulch like this, and you are sure it’s an all-natural mulch, simply remove it and add it to your compost bin where it can continue to break down slowly. Now you can replenish the mulch with a moist fresh batch of all natural wood and hopefully a little compost mix as well.

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4th of July Garden Activities

Desiree Gardens June 27, 2023 June 29, 2023Calendar, July, Tomatoes 1

Independence Day is uniquely popular for outdoor activities: socializing, grilling, pool parties, and of course fireworks. Do you have fireworks going off in your garden? You should! The outdoor garden area can be one of the most popular gathering places for your friends and family. Many many summer plants are just absolutely exploding with color right now!

Crape myrtles in particular are showing off their blooms with a dizzying display of color. If you’re interested in planting one, it is the perfect time to select the exact color you want as they are all in bloom at the nursery right now. Here in North Texas almost every crape myrtle you choose will be freeze tolerant for any weather we get with few exceptions. If your crape myrtle is not blooming or even showing substantial dead branches and trunks, AND is shooting up abundant new growth from the ground it has likely suffered from freeze damage. The best action may be to cut away the dead and then cultivate new growth from the ground up. The same applies if your crape myrtles have been “topped.” Topping a crape myrtle results in ugly looking knots at the tops of the tree. There is no way to correct this, other than to cut it down to the ground (in the winter!) and then await the vigorous flush of new growth that will come out at the first hint of warmer weather.

If tomatoes are your thing they should be ready for the last summer harvest now. In this intense summer heat they will likely stop producing. Most tomato varieties require temperatures at night to fall below 75° in order to set fruit, although there are exceptions. The ever popular cherry tomato can produce amazing crops of fruit throughout the summer. Other varieties include the Heatmaster tomato and the Phoenix tomato. Regardless of what you’re growing, tomatoes in the summer are water intensive. They should be deeply watered in the summer heat, but make sure the soil is well drained. As much as they like the water they don’t like roots that stay constantly wet. You can encourage them further with some shade cloth set up to block the blazing afternoon sun. Some growers even use misters to cool the air through evaporative cooling. If your dream is to cultivate hot summer tomatoes be aware that, unless you’re on well water, you’ll see a marked increase in your water bill!

Any pruning on oaks should be done this month. This is the safest time to prune oak species as the deadly oak wilt fungus is inactive. Any shade trees with low hanging branches can also be cut back. Sometimes these low hangers don’t reveal themselves in the winter dormant season when we would like to prune. They wait until they are burdened with the weight of an abundance of leaves. It won’t hurt to take down one or two of those low hanging branches right now, just don’t go overboard with the pruning. Generally speaking this is the wrong time of year to prune any trees. Now is the time these trees use all the sunlight collected by their leaves to build up reserves, and we want to avoid requiring them to divert energy to healing a wound when they should be at the peak of their growing season.

If you have hanging baskets or container gardens it’s time to add a little slow release fertilizer. Potting soil is a fantastic medium for plants, but it contains very little nutritional value. Your potted plants need those additional feedings of fertilizer that your in ground plantings get from compost and mulch. If you have flowering plants, a simple rose food fertilizer is excellent.

Of course all this heat means that proper irrigation and watering is more important than ever. Don’t think that you have to water too often: it is more important to water deeply than to water frequently. Most North Texans (with a few exceptions) have a heavy clay soil that cannot absorb as much water as we would like all at once. If you’re seeing runoff onto the sidewalks, driveways, etc. then you are watering more than the soil can absorb. In these cases you will need to cycle your waterings. This means that you will water a short cycle, wait for it to be absorbed, and then water another short cycle. Lather rinse and repeat as many times as it takes for the clay soil to absorb water at least 4-6 inches down. Most modern sprinkler timers are able to be programmed in this way. If yours is older, consider upgrading the controller. Newer digital controllers are easy to program and can be controlled from your phone from anywhere. You can also add a soil moisture meter that will automatically tell your irrigation controller when the soil is too dry.

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The heat is here!

Desiree Gardens June 19, 2023 June 19, 2023Late June and July 0

I know everyone has noticed but the heat is here!

Late June and July’s warm temperatures support vigorous growth for a wide range of plants. Heat-loving vegetables like tomatoes, peppers, eggplants, okra, and sweet potatoes thrive during this time, producing abundant yields. Flowers such as zinnias, sunflowers, marigolds, and cosmos are currently displaying vibrant colors and attract pollinators. One thing to note however is that many perennial flowers and shrubs reach their peak bloom in July in North Texas. Examples include daylilies, coneflowers, salvias, butterfly bushes, and hydrangeas. Several fruiting trees, such as peaches, plums, and figs, are also bearing fruit and some of those like sand plums are already ripe, while berries like blackberries and blueberries are also ready for harvesting.

That means it’s time to start planning for fall!

This is also the time when we start to see problems with tomatoes, such as blossom end rot. This condition usually results from a lack of calcium in the soil. You might remember your grandmother scattering egg shells throughout her vegetable garden. While this can help, it is easier and faster to use a calcium glycinate or a calcium nitrate in a liquid form. Bone meal is another option, and can be obtained from most butchers, but some people find the smell offensive and it can attract some undesirable pests.

This heat means that having a well functioning and well designed irrigation system is even more important than ever. Transpiration, the amount of water used by the plants and evaporated into the air is through the roof! Deep watering is crucial to ensure the root zone receives enough moisture. Water your garden early in the morning or late in the evening, when temperatures are low, to minimize evaporation. Pay attention to the specific water needs of different plants and adjust watering each zone accordingly.

July is a busy time for pollinators in North Texas, with bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds frequenting your garden. Planting nectar-rich flowers like bee balm, salvia, lavender, and coneflowers will attract and support these essential pollinators. These plants, when watered adequately, will thrive in the heat and provide a source of food and shelter for your pollinators.

We hear this all the time: “I have so many weeds and it’s so hot! What can I do?” Weeds can quickly take over right now. It is so easy to just resign yourself to the heat and let the garden run rampant. That being said, it is critically important to regularly remove weeds from your garden to prevent them from competing with your plants for resources. If you haven’t done so already, it’s now the time to apply mulch around your plants to help suppress weed growth.

Heat stress management can be an issue for some plants in North Texas. The intense heat we experience during July is harmful to some of your little guys. Consider providing shade for heat-sensitive plants, especially during the hottest parts of the day. Shade cloth, or planting taller plants nearby, can provide relief. Other solutions such as misters can provide a dramatic evaporative cooling effect. Water your plants deeply and consider using an organic mulch to regulate soil temperature and conserve moisture.

Give us a call at 877-558-1496, or drop us a line and contact us here, to find out how Desiree can help you create a wonderful garden with a budget you can afford.

Mid June Garden Update

Desiree Gardens June 6, 2023 May 24, 2023Annuals, Calendar, Early June, Fruits and Vegetables, Insects and Pest Control, Mid June, Natural Gardens, Plants 1

The summer sun has the soil warmed up nicely for all of our heat loving plants. Peppers, eggplants, cucumbers, squash, and beans should all be in the ground now. Tomatoes are likely big enough at this point that they, and other tall plants, would benefit from a cage or stake to support them. Don’t forget to prune suckers from tomato plants, and keep an eye out for hornworms that can destroy your crop.

Speaking of hornworms, it’s time to keep an eye out for other pests, and the beneficial insects that eat them. Our praying mantises have hatched, and the ladybugs are out in force patrolling for aphids. Spiders, wasps, small snakes and toads all contribute their share to pest control in your garden. While many people dislike these creepy crawlies, they are a necessary part of a healthy ecosystem in your garden. If you do find pests, you can mix a small amount of dishwashing liquid and spray them down. Diatomaceous earth powder works too, but it does not discriminate and will harm the beneficial insects as much as the pests. For snails and slugs traps work very well, and you can make your own by setting out a shallow dish or jar top filled with cheap beer.

There are also some pests where you’ll have to make a judgement call: Swallowtail caterpillars absolutely love dill and fennel, and can denude a plant in just a few days, but if you kill the caterpillars you won’t have the beautiful butterflies they turn into. Gulf Frilly caterpillars love Passion Flower vines and their voracious appetites can reduce the number of amazing blooms you get, but again: No caterpillars, no butterflies. In our experience, simply having healthy plants is usually enough that the caterpillars can get their fill and the plant can survive just fine.

The weather lately here in North Texas has brought us an abundance of rain, but anyone who has lived in Texas very long knows that this rarely lasts. As the rains taper off and the heat continues, it will be more and more important to water appropriately. Deep soaking watering is vastly preferable to more frequent shallow watering as it will encourage the growth of strong deep roots. If you are hand watering or using a sprinkler you should water very early morning to minimize evaporation. In the same manner, drip irrigation is even better as it applies water to the soil directly where it is needed. You can cover your drip lines with mulch to further eliminate evaporation of the water.

Speaking of mulch, you can’t really go wrong applying another layer of mulch around your plants. Not only does this help to conserve soil moisture as alluded to above, but it will also suppress weed growth and help stabilize soil temperature. We use organic materials like straw, wood chips, and even shredded leaves as mulch, and place it over a layer of cardboard or newspaper (junk mail works too, just not the glossy stuff.) If you get mulch from a garden center or nursery, you should avoid dyed mulch. Red and black dyed mulch is the most common, but the chemicals in the dyes can have negative effects on your plants. A good 100% hardwood or cypress mulch is what we recommend, and it looks just as good as a fancy dyed mulch.

It’s also time to start harvesting some of your plants! Blackberries, plums, green onions, and asparagus are already starting to ripen. If you grow asparagus, this should be your last harvest of the year and the plant should be allowed to rejuvenate as an ornamental until the next harvest.

June is also the time to plant annual flowers that thrive in the warm weather. Consider colorful options such as cocks comb, marigolds, zinnias, cosmos, petunias, and sunflowers. Most of these plants appreciate full sun. Prepare your annual beds with a good mix of compost, landscapers mix, and top off with mulch.

Remember, specific gardening tasks can vary depending on the microclimate and individual garden conditions within North Texas, and readers to the north or south of Zone 8 will have slightly different timing.

Give us a call at 877-558-1496, or drop us a line and contact us here, to find out how Desiree can help you create a wonderful garden with a budget you can afford.

Early June Plantings and Irrigation

Desiree Gardens May 30, 2023 May 21, 2023Annuals, Calendar, Early June, Grasses, Perennials, Plants, Shrubs 0

The summer heat is definitely here, and adequate watering is more important than ever! If you haven’t already, it’s definitely time to adjust the watering schedule on your irrigation system.

Deep waterings are one of the best ways to keep your plants happy, but if you have a clay soil you can’t just dump all that water all at once as the soil won’t absorb it. Instead you’ll have excessive runoff onto your driveway, sidewalks, and the street. All that wasted water! Instead, set up each zone to water in multiple short intervals. Instead of one long 30-minute watering session, set up your clay soil zones to do three 10-minute waterings separated by 10-minute “rest” sessions to give the soil time to absorb the water.

On the other hand, if you have sandy soil, or a sandy loam (more common on the far western side of the DFW metroples in areas like Weatherford, Springtown, Azle, etc.) your soil will readily absorb as much as a half-inch of precipitation from your irrigation system at a time. Don’t hesitate to water deeply and run your system for 30-minutes or longer, depending on your plants’ requirements. You don’t need to do this every day. Deep watering even once or twice a week is more than adequate, especially if you have more native plants or drought tolerant varieties. Deep watering like this also makes it easier to comply with any water use restrictions imposed by periods of drought and the accompanying water supply shortages.

Now is also the time to start planting all of the heat loving plants in your garden. Crape Myrtles, Salvias, Lantanas, Texas Star Hibiscus, Verbena, Turk’s Cap, Phlox, Purple Fountain Grass, Purslane, and Yuccas are just some examples of these. Reseeding annuals such as Zinnias, Marigolds, and 4 O’clocks also thrive in the blistering summer heat. Other annuals such as Coleus, Pentas, and Caladiums should also be planted now.

It should be noted that this year has been a bad one for Caladium nurseries which have been hit hard and are not able to meet the normal demand for this plant. If you can find a Caladium plant, get it when and where you can.

If potted tropical plants are your thing, Bouganvillas, Tropical Hibiscus, Sago Palms, Agaves, succulents, and other cold sensitive potted plants will do well if planted now. Just remember that container gardens have very different watering requirements than in-ground gardens, but you can still have your containers hooked up to an irrigation system as long as they are on a separate zone.

Give us a call at 877-558-1496, or drop us a line and contact us here, to find out how Desiree can help you create a wonderful garden with a budget you can afford.

Memorial Day Garden Chores

Desiree Gardens May 23, 2023 May 21, 2023Calendar, Deciduous, Fruit Trees, Fruits and Vegetables, Late May, Plants, Trees, Vines 0

The growing season is running full steam ahead here at Desiree Gardens! That means there is a LOT going on right now.

If you haven’t started already, now is the time to prune your wisteria and other spring blooming vines or shrubs. Do not wait until late summer or fall! The buds for next spring’s blooms will set through out the late summer and fall, and if you wait to prune you won’t have any flowers come next spring. It’s also time to prune any shade trees you have, except for oaks. For other species, any low hanging branches should be cut back now and it is a fine time to prune sucker growth on the interior of the canopy.

If you have oaks that need trimming, just be patient. Mid to late summer is the best time to prune your oak trees to in order to minimize the chances of spreading oak wilt. When you do prune your oaks, all cuts should be covered with a tree wound paint, or a regular latex paint (color doesn’t matter!) you can find at your local paint or hardware store.

If you have blackberries or other fruit bearing canes, it is time to tip-prune new canes in order to keep the plant compact, as well as to encourage branching. Stone fruit trees like plums and peaches should have the fruit thinned now in order to encourage larger higher quality fruit that remains.

Give us a call at 877-558-1496, or drop us a line and contact us here, to find out how Desiree can help you create a wonderful garden with a budget you can afford.